How a Mola is Made (Part History of San Blass and other Island)

In Dulegaya, the Kuna’s native language, “mola” means “shirt” or “clothing”. The mola originated with the tradition of Kuna women painting their bodies with geometrical designs, using available natural colors. In later years, these same designs were woven in cotton. Later still, designs were sewn into cloth bought from the European settlers of Panama.

The artistry of a mola reflects a synthesis of traditional Kuna culture with the influences of the modern world. Mola art developed when Kuna women had access to store-bought yard goods.

Geometric molas are the most traditional. They were developed from ancient body painting designs. Many hours of careful sewing are required to create a fine mola. The ability to make an outstanding mola is a source of status among Kuna women.

The quality of a mola is determined by factors as number of layers, the fineness of stitch, evenness and width of cutouts, addition of details such as zigzag borders, lattice-work or embroidery, and the general artistic merit of the design and color combination.

When Kuna women get tired of a particular blouse, they disassemble it and sell the molas to collectors. Since mola panels have been worn as part of the traditional dress of a Kuna woman, they often show signs of wear such as fading and stitch marks along the edges of the panels. These “imperfections” indicate that the mola is authentic and not made solely to be sold to tourists.

Mola panels have many uses. They can be framed as art or made into pillows, place mats or wall hangings. Some people even make them into bedspreads or incorporate them into quilting projects.